Here is the old write up on the subject.
This is a ever changing write up, so as time passes by new comments/instructions will be added.
The advance is controlled by the EEC4 by means of the sensor input, The DIS module sets the base timing (10 advance) SPOUT disconnected it's like magic. Hence there is no base timing adjustments.
First of all you need the following parts from a DIS 8 plug head 4 cylinder 91-93 Mustang or 89-93 Ranger. Yet the setup on the 91-93 Mustang is the best.
Crank pulley assembly has the hall effect rotor in the back of it. you will need a puller to remove it properly with out damage, they are in very tight.Then again some come out by hand.
Front engine cover. This is the one that holds the front crank seal It has a special shape to fit around the crank trigger bracket.
Crank trigger bracket/fasteners and sensor assembly to include wiring and connectors.
DIS module and wiring harness.
1 Coil pack or 2 coil packs and brackets depending if you are running a 4 plug or 8 plug head. Also plug wires.
Dummy Distributor plug. This is needed in order to drive the oil pump after the distributor is removed.
Water pump pulley and alternator (serpentine).
If you are not going to use the DPDIS motor intake (4 plug head) you will need a heat sink to install the DIS module so to dissipate the heat and don't forget to put some dielectric grease in between the back of the DIS module and the heat sink. Also the DIS module requires a good ground for it to work properly.
Crank trigger bracket installation.
This is the hardest thing to do because it requires that two holes be drill and tap on the from of the stock turbo block also is best to do it with the engine out of the car and oil pan removed.
You will need to make a template of the holes for the installation of the crank trigger this is done by copying the location of the holes on a DIS block. You can use the lower passenger side front cover bolt holes on the DIS block as a reference since they are in the same location as on the turbo block. I used a piece of Plexiglas to make the template, I trim it so it would lay flat on the front of the DIS block and with a drill I made the holes on the piece of Plexiglas. Then I lay it on the front of the turbo block and center punch mark the spots to be drill for the crank trigger bracket.
NOTICE: The #1 main bearing cavity runs very close to where the holes for the bracket go. So you have to be very careful when drilling or you will ruin a good block,you may want to let a machine shop handle it. I took a chance and did it my self with a hand drill. Once the crank trigger bracket is installed there is a air gap that has to be set just right for the sensor to work properly, from my experience as long as the sensor does not rub against the hall effect rotor there is no problem and it will work properly.
Also when installing the DIS block front cover it will be needed to remove the gasket from the front part of the oil pan, you will need to use sealer because the gasket is going to be to thick for it to fit properly or use a the oil pan from the DIS block.
DIS and EEC-IV wiring.
1- Unwrap the DIS wire harness all the way to the "Y" at the DIS module(do not unwrap the aluminum foil wrap wires).
2- Remove 2 wires from the White connector Black(Shield ground) and Blue/Orange stripe(CID not used).
3- Remove 1 wire from the Brown connector Tan/Yellow stripe(IDM).
4- Cut Red/Green stripe wire from multi splice, remove White and Brown connector with the MAF sensor connector/wires.
5- Remove IAC wires from Gray connector, at this point you should have just the DIS specific wires only.
The following is a break down of the wire color as per function and pin location on the DIS module connectors.
Top connector(Black) wires 1 through 6.
1- Red/Green stripe start/run power.
2- Blue/Orange stripe CID (output to turbo EEC-IV not used).
3- Gray/Orange stripe PIP.
4- Blue PIP (Crank sensor input).
5- Pink Spout.
6- Blue/Yellow stripe DPI (to ground).
Bottom connector(Gray) wires 7 through 12.
7- Orange/Red stripe IGN Ground.
8- Tan/Blue stripe Coil.
9- Tan/Green stripe Coil.
10- Tan/Orange stripe Coil.
11- Tan/Red stripe Coil.
12- Tan/Yellow stripe IDM (TACH).
You may want to use the DIS wire harness Gray connector that has most of the wires necessary for the connection or delete it and just solder strait to the wires from the Thick film ignition connector.
Notice the power multi splice it is a lot simpler to cut one wire to the coils off and splice it to the other, also the same can be done to the wires that feed the Crank trigger sensor and the DIS module. I figure this would be a call on the installer. I prefer to feed power to the coils directly from the battery + post by using a fuel pump relay which is good up to 30 amp.
Case ground(Chassis) is achieved by the mounting holes on the DIS module on the left side of the module holding it with the black connector up while facing you. Note this ground has to be good other wise the DIS module will not work properly it also will get extremely HOT.
Pin orientation is marked on the DIS module just pull the connectors out and you will see the markings 1 and 6 for the top connector and 7 and 12 for the bottom connector.
This is actually very simple once the DIS module wires are identified = SPOUT, IDM, PIP, DPI, CID, IGN GND, IGN PWR and on the EEC4 thick film connector = SPOUT, IDM, PIP, IGN GRN, IGNPWR START, IGNPWR RUN. After this is done splice the wires from the DIS connector to their respective equal on the thick film connector. NOTICE; the CID wire from the DIS going to the EEC4 is not used since the EEC4 does not have this feature, but the DIS module needs it to calculate timing. The DPI wire from the DIS goes to ground. I prefer to use a source of power to the DIS that is on both when starting and running instead of the thick film ignitions power feed wires. I used the power feed wire that would normally feed the stock coil.
You will be able to trim the DIS wiring harness of some unnecessary length of wire once you figure the location you will install it.
The DIS module has to sense it is grounding two coil packs to produce the IDM (tach) signal. If you are going to run a single coil pack on a 4 plug head then splice the wires from the unused coil pack connector to the coil pack that is going to fire the plugs. This will fool the DIS module in to thinking it is running two coil packs.
The following are base timing adjustments that need to be done when using the DPDIS 8 plug setup in order to achieve better performance and the capability of running higher boost level that other wise would not be possible due to the DPDIS head design. The design of the head does not require as much timing advance as the turbo EEC-IV put out so because of the mismatch of the newer head with the older turbo computer (LA3) the following steps have to be taken.
1st since there is no mechanical adjustment of the base timing in the DIS setup as there is with the earlier distributor setup found in all turbo 2.3L cars (this means turning the distributor). I figured that by trimming metal (1/16 = 2deg) from the leading edge PIP tabs of the rotor that trips the crank trigger sensor (keep in mind the rotor turns clockwise as you stand in front of the engine) the base timing could be retarded from 10deg advance to 4deg advance. This setting helps limit total timing advance and in turn helps control detonation at boost.
2nd the OCTANE switch feature of the 87-88 TC LA3 computer has to be set at regular fuel so to limit total timing advance and controlling detonation even further.
I have been able to run 20psi boost spikes and 15 to 18psi boost continuos boost with out detonation while using a IC in both my 85 SVO and Pinto SW 89-93 DPDIS equiped cars while using a Saab APC boost controller. G-Tech test runs have shown a gain of 20hp in other words from 210hp to 230hp. Special thanks to Joe Morgan and Marcello Canitano with out their help the above timing adjustment would not have been possible.
Tachometer problems (remember) the DIS system tach pulse to the tachometer is of 12 volts so if the tachometer has a high resistor in the tach circuit it will not work. The fix is to add a 1K OHM resistor in parallel to the first resistor inside the tachometer tach signal circuit or solder in a wire so to bypass the resistor. Yet some cars like the Merkurs will have no problems with tach signal. Then there is the 87-88 TC this cars will need a diode installed in the tach power feed circuit at the fuse box to filter out the DIS signal so it will not cause problems with erroneous reading with the tachometer.
The use of a efficient front mounted IC and engine coolant temperature control (around 180*F) is of the upmost importance in this setup in order to achieve high boost levels.
I think I got it all. If any other questions feel free to ask.
The following write up I copied from a post sent by pritch82 <firstname.lastname@example.org>
I've been running this for some time now, waiting for the pictures to
be developed. Probably close to 3,000 miles on it now. Thanks to
everyone over the years for the chats that provided the inspiration to
Here's how I did it:
1. Remove crank trigger (duh).
2. Weld the 2 trigger rings together, taking care not to weld to the
cast iron hub nor the rivets. Just a dab or two should do as the
rings aren't under any load.
3. Etch/engrave an alignment index mark on both the cast iron hub and
the outer PIP ring (see photo). It doesn't matter where. Once the
rings are moved this will be the only means of getting back to "zero"
so be precise. I ALSO notched mine in a second spot just as a backup.
4. Drill out the two rivets.
5. This was the tough part. Separate the rings from the hub. I had
to use a variety of tools and still managed to bend the rings into a
taco shape. This, obviously, was not good. Leading to step 6.
6. Restore/flatten/round the rings. The outer ring should have a
nominal outer diameter of 3.660 inches by my measurements.
7. Slot the rivet holes of the rings using a drill and dremel. I went
~0.25" either side, not particularly precise, enough for ~8* advance
8. Next to the alignment index on the outer ring, engrave additional
timing marks. The circumference is 3.660"xpi=11.50", divide by 360*
to get one degree of timing is 0.032". I couldn't be that precise, so
I marked mine for two-degree increments (=0.064"). See photo.
9. Drill and tap the hub at the rivet holes for retaining screws. I
chose M5x10mm fine thread screws, and was lucky enough to find a short
panhead allen-key style that won't hit the crank sensor.
10. Dress the hub and the ring ID with emory paper to make adjustment
11. Bolt the ring to the hub, obviously with attention to the timing
12. Reinstall trigger assembly on engine, but not the serpentine
13. Rotate the crank by wrench, checking for adequate clearance
between the crank pickup and the crank sensor. My shop manual says
the air gap should be 0.018"-0.039". Adjust as necessary.
14. When you're satisfied that there are no interference problems
with the crank sensor, go ahead and reinstall the serpentine pulley ad
15. Remove SPOUT connector and confirm base timing.
16. Reinstall SPOUT connector.
The server is going to "time out" on me so I had better hit send now.